Arctic, shoe or overshoe



Sept. 1, 1931. P. H. MARG ULIS ARCTIC, SHOE, 0R QVERSHOE Filed Oct. 28,1926 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR P575? 414/9604 /s BY 7 7 MW Sept. 1,1931.

P. H. MARGULIS ARCTIC, SHOE, OR OVERSHOE Filed Oct. 28, 1926 2Sheets-Sheet 2 Jig/0,

INVENTOR 1 576,? b. M40601 Patented Sept. 1, 1931 PETER I-I-.=MAR-GULIS, 1

Atacricisnonomovniesno'n;

Applioatidn'file'd October 28, 1926': Serial" no.- 144,709:

invention relates to" improvements" which areiespecially applicable tothe class of foot' appiarel'commonly:called arctics, which i areusually; worn over shoes The *irnprove 5 ,111611'03, may,however,ib'eincorporatediin shoes of; otlier 'types such'; for:example," as types" analogous tolum'bermens; pacs,*iw h-ich are."wornover stockings-or sookswithout fan inner.- sho'e; vor 'in variouswork or sport shoesr 10; For brevity and; convenience; iitris'sufiicient hereinafter toreferto overshoes-of the-arotic type;

155 a relatively. high lega'portion or upper with a novel bellows;formation, the front or 'b'ellows part of-whioh projects outward'landfolds:

smoothly and compactly about the other leg:

folds which render the 'leg. structureincongven-ient,bulky; andunsightly;

A further'objectis'to provide, in connection with theyfeaturesrealizingthe above stated object, simple and easily=operated fastening:

1116 ans A: further. object isto provide a leg 'or bellows 7 structureof the. closed type, that 153,111 which the legwalls are continuous andwhich at the-same time provides, when in open-position, and ampleopeninginto which the foot 357 is easily inserted; The folds of thebellows folds structure are relatively so shaped and.

proportioned that the natural tendencyof the bellows foldis toautomatically fall or swing:

re'arwar'dly upon' the" acent" part of the. upper, and when it isfastened" in this posi tion, theupper and lower edges of the permanentlyset bellows fold are in close contact with theshoe.

A -more 5 particular obj e'ct is to provide an process of manufactureitis resilientlyset inapproximately, or permanently set with-a foldededge,so that its upper edges'm'ayeasily" and automatically 1 open a up, forthe insertion or withdrawal of the foot with its shoe; and

The general object of: the invention is to r. provide anfi oviershoeofthis :class; which has :5; upper'or'bellows structure','by-whioh inthe V shoe infolded or fastened position and with wherrirel'eased fromits fastening m'eans, said bellowswill naturally fa'll onspring back,ina near-lytcl'osedposition about the wearers leg,

therebyto facilitate its=instant'fastening into position.

The clraracteristics and advantages ofthe invention are furthersuliiciently explained iIrconnection with the followingdetai-ldescription of the accompanying drawings; which shows one" exemplifyingi embo dim'ent of theinvention. After considering:this ex ample, skilledpersons will understandthat many variations ma'yfi'b'e made, and" Icontemplatel the employment of any structures that are properlywithiirthe scope 'ofithe' zip-' pendrliclaim'si In: the drawings I E g1 leis;ai plan viewof a ina-in'topiblank;

Fig. Qis' a plan'view of 'a bellows liningzl Fig; is 'a-iflplan view ofa rubber upper Fig. 4: is a=perspectiveview of a culfi lining; Fig, 5isiai sideelevation' of thei shoe or oversh'oe structure upon. a:last,-. with parts" brokenuaway; to 'di-sclose the structure andpreferred method of assembly. a

Fig: fi-i's a sideelevation of' the completed structure removed fromthelast', with the bellows; portion and fastening flaps in open'orext'en'de'd position, and with parts broken awayf an'd in section. v

Eigt 7: is asection at 7 7, Fig; 6*showin'gu the bellows"swunginwardly-' to a semi-closed position.

Fig Sis a view similar to Fig, 6; with; the" bellows 1 structure folded"and secured, exceptfor one fastening.flap, which is'in extended Iposition;

Fig;i'9fis-a sid'e elevation' of'the top portion of the top structureincompletely folded and ed" or upright position.v

fastene'diposition and'with the 'cuff in unfold Fig: 10ii-s a similarview fromthe'opposite Sid'e 'of thestructure:-

- o F'g'all shows the completeshoe' or'overthe cuif'tunneddown' orfolded,-

'Theove'rshoe :01 artic is convenientlybuilt upon a last InA'mainliningr1 of any. suit able fabric'is appliedto'the last, coveringthe may in some cases be in two pieces, butpreferably is as shown in asingle piece, and when so made is conveniently designated as the rubberupper in distinction from the sole and other rubber portions of theovershoe. This rubber upper includes the vamp portion 5 'andthe rear orcounter portions 6, which are extended to form heel portions 7. In thisblank the edge 8 will define the foot opening and the rear edges 9 areshaped so that when they are brought together and secured by any knownmethod, the rubber upper. or foot portion of the structure is completedin proper shape, as shown in Figs. 5 or 8. The rubber upper may beapplied to the foot part of the last either before or after the top orleg portion is applied, and then secured to the latter, as referred tohereafter.

The tops or leg portions of artics or similar articles are usually ofcloth or rubberized fabric. Such material is therefore preferably usedfor my top or leg structure which is, however, of novel and improvedconstruction in many important respects. The main top blank 10 of clothor rubberized fabric may be made in two or more parts, but, desirably,for economy and convenience of manufacture it is made in a single piece,as shown in Fig. 1, including the side or leg portions 11, 11a, cuffportions 12, 12a, fastener flaps or tongues 13 and l t, and bellowsportions 21 and 22. Fig. 1 shows the inside or reverse face of the top10 and dotted lines indicate lines upon which the material is to befolded or creased in process of manufacture or in theman1pula= tion ofthe completed overshoe. 1 Detailsof the top 10 are furtherexplainedindescribing its incorporation into the overshoe or its form inthe completed article. i In order to provide a thin, close-fittingbellows edgeof definite and permanent form, as furtherexfolded alongline 15 which defines this outer bellows edge, and along other parallellines 16, which define strips 17 of the fabric which are to be securedtogether to form a relatively thin or permanently secured outer bellowsmargin 18. For this purpose the blank may be placed upon a boardhaving'a narrow slot and with a dull blade or similar implement thefabric is pressed into the slot so that the line 15 of Fig. 1nowbecomesfthe bellows edge, as shown in Figs. 5 and 6, and; thezones orstrips 17 are broughttogether and secured by adhesive'such as rubbercement to form the outer bellows margln 18, Flgs. 5

and 6. Desirably, although not necessarily in all cases, I also providea bellows lining 20, Fig. 2. This provides for proper lining of thebellows portion of the cloth top structure, the side or leg portions 11,11a being lined by the corresponding or underlying portions of the mainlining 1, previously referred to. Fig. 2 shows the inner or reverse sideof the bellows lining, which is dimensioned to correspond with theoutline of the bellows portions 21 and 22 of the main or fabric top 10after it has been creased and secured to form the edge-fold formation asjust described. Thus the center line of the bellows lining, indicated bythe dotted line 23, corresponds to the lines 16 of the top fabric afterfolding in the manner above described, and the bellows lining portions24 and 25 at either side ofthe center line 23 correspond respectivelyto'the bellows portions 21'and 22 of the main top blank 10. Bellowslining portion 25 also has a projecting flap 26 to underlie and correspond in outline to fastening flap 14 of the top blank bellows portion22. Desirably, also, a cuff lining 30, Fig. 4 is provided, which may beintegral with the main lining, or separate, as shown. If separate, it isusually of th e same material as to the top blank, although it may be ofa different or contrasting material. The separate lining strip, such as30, is applied to the last and the upper margins of the leg portions ofthe'main lining, which are cut off at about the line 43, Figs. 601' 8,are secured to the lower margin of the cuff lining. When the top blankis applied and secured, as later referred to, the

cuff lining is therefore. positioned ready to underlie and line'theupper parts of the top side or leg members 11 and 11a. When thetherefore be in harmony with the other exposed portions of thetop or if,as stated, it is of a contrasting material, it will provide a novel andpleasing appearance of contrast with the rest of the cloth top. In somecases P ained hereafter, the blank is desirably f upper Portions of theSides of the main lining may constitute the cuff lining, and in suchcases the main lining sides or leg portions are cut so that their upperedges are alined with the upper edges of the top blank cuff portions 12and 1211 when the top blank reenforcing or lining piece of the form ofthe blank section 32, of Fig. 1, may be applied to the fastening flap13, or the main flap and its reenforcement may be made as shownin Fig.

1, as integral parts of the blank, these flaps being connected along theline 33 and the reenforcing flap 32 being separated from the adjacentcuff portion 12 by acut 34.. The

is applied, as later referred to. A separate I reenforcement:isfoldedover and adhesively' secured to the mainflap;

The fabric top 10",partly linedand formedas'above described; isnowa-ppli'edover the side. or leg portions of the main lining; and

properlyshaped about-said lining upon the last and "adhesi'vely securedtothe main lining: The loweredges of-the top structure are lapped overthe upper margins of the foot openings ofthe rubber-u-pper,- andpres'sedor otherwise securedth-ereto. The edges 41 are 1 brought"together usually without 1 overlap, b'u-tclosely abutting to formaerearseam on line of" jomder of the topor leg structure,

andpressed' firmly-inposition upon themaih above described, andthelines42a indicate the positions ofthe edges 42?) of th'e bellows lining afterthat has been appliedto the mainii top blank-1' Before the overshoe -isvulcanized, the bellows'folds structure-has been given the. per? manentset, whereby to impart the-{bias or tendency to automatically swingrearwardly back upon the adj acentupper: This tendency: or bias isdue-to the relative shapeand proportion ofthe-folds of thebellowsyfolds,

so that-no lappingor foldi-ng operationis;

.moved; the bellows structure has permanecessary in placingthe shoe.When the-footisinsertedrwith the dress shoe thereon, theparts naturallytend, becauseof theirrelative shape and proportion, to assume theposition ofFigures -8 and ll; in;suchposition-that f 111 F310. Th i th fte 1nd u mes m 1g Gr as back; into. the approximately closedflpositionconnection: or-fasteningis facilitated. The

edge 15 lies closealongthe surface--'of"thei leg portion of the shoe,andthe-upper edge of the bellows fOldflS somewhat below-theloweredgeof-the cuft fold-. The--up-perend? 4A: of the edge fold'15 wil-lthen usually-lie" about at. the rear-seam of the cloth top structure,and the bellows fastening flap is carried around the; other. side-oftl'ie leg and overlies leg portion- 11a substantially in" 3 tliepositionshown in dottedlinesin Fig. 8'

flap 13 is then brought down against'theleg portion and ove'rlappeduponthe fla -14, and

suitable'fasteners, such as- 50 and-51 are provided on therespeotiVeflapsto securethem together: VVhenthe fasteners-are, as: shown, of theball and socket type, com-w monly knownas "snap fasteners ,.a plurality:

ofthe-ball or studinembers 51 arerdesirablyprovided on flap: 14?spacedirelation', and a single one of the a socket a members 50. may:

The side or leg portions 11, 11'atheir b'eprovided near the endof the;other flap '13 'to comperate with aselected one of? the st-t1dsand so toprovide a: substantial range ofadjustment to fit difierentlegrdimensions, orto'providethe desired snug-or loose fit around theleg.

It is now apparent that the different=for- {nations of-theupperiportions of the bellows sections: 21" and 22 are of substantialim-- portance. The'portion- 21' desirably is cut with-its upper edge 55considerably below the upper edge 41a of th-e portion 22 whichisextended toform' the upper'edge contour: of. the-fastening-fiap 14. Whenthe-bellows autos matically drops into position about the leg, as abovedescribed, the upper portion of the bellows pa-rt 22 eXtends-- abovethe. edge. 55 of the other-bellows section, orin other words, thisupperportion of the folded bellows structures is'of single thickness, toavoid un due thickness or bulkinessof the bellows for:- mation adjacentthe cufi. This arrangement" also leaves a singlethintop edge 41a, whichwill fit' snugly and tightly about the leg. p01".- tions, in directcontact with one. ofzthem, and aid mater-iallyin excluding dirt andmoisture.

At any-ti'me after: the-rubber upper leis. applied to the foot portionof thelast' the rubber-outersole 60- is applied: and secured over theiuturned lower margins of the rubber: upper. The complete overshoewiththebellows structure foldedand secured in the described-manner, isthenvulcanized, and in this operation all the parts are permanentlynent-flXible-setin its folded' position, or'in:

"othewwords, as best shown-in the-section View, Fig. 7 the-bellows partsnaturally tend' tofall or spring into the approximate position' shown:in that figure, that is, to approximatelyclosed position. This isbecause the parts haVe beenoriginally folded-and fas-.tenedandEwulcaniZed in that position; which is the position that they"willhave when fas; tened .upon the leg of the wearer. There forewheirthe bellows formation is extended substantially as shown in Fig:6,to provide a very-wide and free opening into which the footiseasilyinserted, the. bellows. structure will, .upon release, immediatelyspring,or fall of.,Fig,..7 and fall in direct contact with the adjacent upperwhenhsaidf arctic. or over;

shoeiisfreer from..the hands ofthe wearer f The -fi-nalclosing; and.fastening of I the bele lowsin correct position is thusgreatly facili-Evidently the cuff structure is such that the overshoe may be worn withthe cuff turned up or down, and when turned down it partly or entirelycovers and conceals the fasteners and adjacent portions of the fasteningflaps.

I claim: a 1. An overshoe having at the front thereof a bellowsstructure formed by integral extensions from the upper, said extensionshaving the edges remote from the upper secured together in face to facerelation to form a thin edge and to bias the extensions to lie face toface, a permanently set crease being provided at the junction of oneextension with the upper to bias the structure to normally swing to thatside of the overshoe provided with the crease and against the adjacentside of the upper, said structure of a length to extend to the rear ofthe upper and to lap upon the opposite side, and cooperatingcomplemental fastening means in connection with the structure and thetop of the overshoe, one of said means being at the upper outer cornerof the bellows structure, and the other so positioned with respect tothe upper that when said means are engaged the 7 free thin edge of thestructure will be drawn and held close against the upper.

2. An article of footwear comprising a lower or foot portion and, a topstructure extending therefrom, said top structure including leg portionsconnected at the rear and separated at the front and bellows portionsextending from the front edges of the leg portions, said bellowsportions being connected at their outer edge which flares diagonallyupward and outward when the bellows structure is open to provide a widetop opening, the bellows portions being foldable rearwardly upon andabout one of the leg portions to form a snug and close fitting closure,the upper margin of one of the bellows portions projecting substantiallyabovethe upper edge of the other bellows portion, providing a bellowstop of reduced thickness forming a close, tight, moistureanddirt-excluding edge of the bellows structure when in closed position.

3. An overshoe having at the front thereof a bellows structure formed byintegral extensions from the upper and a lining for the extensions, saidextensions having the edges remote from the upper secured directlytogether in face to face abutting relation and with the lining extendingacross the connection to provide a thin edge and to normally hold saidextensions face to face, a permanentlyset crease being provided at thejunction of one extension with the upper to bias the structure tonormally swing to that side of the overshoe provided with the crease andagainst the adjacent side of the upper, said structure of a length toextend to the rear of the upper and to lap upon the opposite side, andcooperating complemental fastening means in connection with thestructure and the top of the overshoe, one of said means being at theupper outer corner of the bellows structure, and the other so positionedwith respect to the upper that when said means are engaged the free thinedge of the structure will be drawn and held close against the upper.

34. An overshoe having at the front thereof a bellows structure formedby integral extensions from the upper, said extensions havingthe edgesremote from the upper secured together in face toface relation to form athin edge and to normally hold said extensions face to face, apermanently set crease being provided at'the junction of one extensionwith the upper to bias the structure to normally swing to that side ofthe overshoe provided with the crease and against the adjacent side ofthe upper, said structure of a length to extend to the rear of the upperand to lap upon the opposite side, and cooperating complementalfastening means in connection with the structure and the top of theovershoe, one of said means being at the upper outer corner of thebellows structure, the other so positioned with respect to the upperthat when said means are engaged the free thin edge of the structurewill be drawn and held close against the upper, and a cuff forconcealing the fastening means.

5. A shoe of the class described having a bellows structure formed byintegral. extensions from the upper, said extensions having the edgesremote from the upper secured togetherin face to face relation to form athin edge and to bias the extension to lie face to face, a permanentlyset crease being provided at the junction of one extension with theupper to bias the structure to normally swing to that side of the shoeprovided with the crease and against the adjacent side of the upper,said structure being of a length to extend to near the rear of the upperand terminating in a fastening strap, and cooperating complementalfastening means in connection. with the structure and the top of theshoe, one of said means being at the upper outer corner of the bellowsstructure,

and the other so positioned with respect to,

the upper that when said means areengaged the free thin edge of thestructure will be drawn and heldclose against the upper.

6. A shoe of the class described having a bellows structure formed byintegral extensions from the upper, said extensions having the edgesremote from the upper secured together in face to face relation to forma thin edge and to bias the extensions to lie face to face, apermanently set crease being provided at the junction of one extensionwith the upper to bias the structure to normally swing to that side oftheshoe provided with the crease and against the adjacent side of theupper, said structure of a length to extend in rear of the upper, andadjustable means in connection with the upper and the structure toconnect said structure to the upper.

7. An article of foot wear, including a vamp and an upper having anoutside bellows structure extending from the front edges of the upperand having at the outer portion thereof an integral fastening means, thelower edge of said bellows secured at its throat to the vamp, saidbellows having a permanently set straight line thin edge incliningupwardly and forwardly, and terminating below the fastening means, saidbellows creased to automatically drop into a semi-closed position uponthe adjacent upper preparatory to securing it in place.

8. An article of footwear, including a vamp, and an upper having anoutside sub stantially triangular bellows structure extending from oneside of the upper, said structure formed of inner and outer portions,the outer portion extending above the inner portion and having anextension provided with a fastener, and a fastener on the upper forcooperating with the fastener of the extension.

Signed at New York city in the county of New York and State of New Yorkthis 20th day of October A. D. 1926.

PETER H. MARGULIS.

